When I first saw Gaytten’s Galliano I was stubborn. In my eyes no-one can replace the mind behind that fashion house, the Galliano woman is a beautiful, ornate, delicate thing, a clever and tremulously balanced feat of pretty chiffon and monumental amounts of detail and embellishment. Who could possibly pull off that magic but the man himself? Gaytten was Galliano’s right hand man, and his first take on the collection… it wasn’t for me. There was something timid about it, like he was too afraid to fill the shoes he needed to. Yet Autumn Winter is a fresh start, and this time I’m impressed. It’s not quite perfectly Galliano, but it is not a designer’s job to mimic; it’s only their job to embody the spirit of the house, and I think he got it right this time.
The chiffon gowns were of course, perfectly Galliano; cut on the bias and daringly sheer, but what I liked most were the forties style tailored coats, made eccentric and elegant with one shouldered cape silhouettes. teamed with short hemlines and black stockings, preppy met a young, free and glamorous style that patron Dita Von Teese might be proud of.
Photos Marcus Tondo at GoRunway.com